A complete beginner's guide — the rules, the ideas, and the
habits, written for someone who knows regular chess and nothing else.
Companion to the Maswabe Arena and the Maswabe Openings Book.
1. The board and the four armies
The board is a 14×14 cross — a normal-looking middle with four
3×3 corners missing. Four complete chess armies sit on the four
sides:
Red sits at the bottom, Blue
on the left, Yellow on top, Green
on the right.
Turns go clockwise, always:
Red → Blue →
Yellow → Green →
Red again.
Every army is a full chess set: 8 pawns, 2 rooks, 2 knights, 2 bishops,
a queen and a king, on its own two home ranks.
2. Teams — you and the player across from you
Red + Yellow are a team.
Blue + Green are a team.
Partners sit across the board from each other, so the two enemies sit
on your left and your right.
You win or lose together. There are three ways a game ends:
Checkmate. The moment either king on a team is checkmated,
that whole team loses — instantly. It doesn't matter if the partner was
completely winning on the other side of the board.
King capture. If someone leaves their king where it can actually
be taken (it happens — see section 5), taking it wins on the spot.
Time. Each player has their own clock; a flag loses for the team.
Stalemate and endless repetition are draws, but real 4PC games almost
never draw — someone always gets mated first.
The most important sentence in this guide: your
team has two kings to lose with. Half of 4PC skill is simply noticing,
every turn, which of the four kings is in the most danger — and whether it's
one of yours.
3. The turn order is a weapon
Look at the wheel again: between your move and your partner's move, an
enemy always gets to move. This one fact drives most 4PC strategy.
The golden tempo rule. As Red, the enemy who
moves right after you (Blue) answers your threats immediately — but
the enemy who moves last (Green) has to sit through your move AND
your partner's move before he can respond. So aim your threats at the enemy
downstream of your partner: you effectively attack him two-on-one in tempo.
Flip it around: the enemy right after you punishes your mistakes fastest,
so be most careful about what you leave hanging to him.
4. How the pieces move
Exactly like chess. Rooks, knights, bishops, queens and kings move
identically. The details that differ:
Pawns
Move straight "forward" — away from your own side —
and capture diagonally forward, exactly like chess. Red's pawns march up,
Yellow's march down, Blue's march right, Green's march left. Two squares on
the first move, and en passant works.
Promotion
A pawn promotes when it reaches the 11th rank
counting from your own side — three squares past the middle of the
board. That's a 9-step journey, one longer than chess, but a new queen in a
four-army middlegame is devastating, and the engines value advanced pawns
very highly.
Castling
Normal, on your own back rank — short or long, same
conditions as chess (king and rook unmoved, nothing between, not through
check). Castle early. You have two enemies; an uncastled king is a magnet.
5. Check, checkmate, and the capturable king
You can be checked by either enemy army, and you may never move
into check from anyone.
Blocking, capturing the checker, or moving the king all work as in chess
— and note: your partner's pieces can't block for you, but the check
must simply be legal to escape on your move.
Here's the strange one. In chess, a discovered attack on a king can't
really happen "off-turn." In 4PC it can: Blue moves a piece and accidentally
opens a line from Red's rook to Green's king — and Green isn't the
next player to move. If a king is standing attacked when your turn starts,
you may simply capture it and win.
Practical version: before you make any move, glance at
the long lines (files, ranks, diagonals) that pass through your king and
your partner's king. The #1 beginner disaster in 4PC is opening a line onto
your own team's king from an enemy piece parked far across the huge board —
distances that would be impossible in regular chess are routine here.
6. What the pieces are worth here
The huge board changes the economy. These are the values our engine
learned from millions of games, rounded for humans (in "pawns"):
Piece
Rough value
Why it shifts
Pawn
1
Weak early (long way from promoting), grows
huge as it advances.
Knight
~6
The board is enormous and knights are
slow — they're the piece that loses the most value in 4PC.
Bishop
~8
Long diagonals across a 14-wide board.
Clearly better than a knight here — keep your bishops.
Rook
~10
Open files hit two enemy camps at once.
Queen
~20
The monster of 4PC. Worth about two rooks.
Two queens attacking one king ends games.
Trade rules that follow: two minor pieces beat a rook; don't dump
a minor piece for two or three early pawns; and treat your queen like a
second king — she is your mating weapon and her loss usually decides which
enemy king can never be attacked again.
7. Ten principles for your first hundred games
Castle early, keep pawn cover, leave your king an escape square.
There are two enemy queens in this game. The single most common way strong
players lose is both enemy armies converging on one king that kept no
"luft."
Watch all four kings every turn. Yours, your partner's, and both
enemies'. The game ends at any one of them.
Aim threats at the slow enemy (the one who moves right before
you). He eats two of your team's moves before he can answer — the golden
tempo rule.
Attack one enemy with both armies. A coordinated two-army attack
on a single king is nearly unstoppable — one army defending alone against
two is nearly hopeless. Pick the weaker enemy king and both of you lean on
it.
Don't material-grab while your partner is under attack. The
saddest loss in 4PC: you're up a rook on your side while your partner gets
mated on his. His mate is YOUR loss. When his king is in danger, create
counter-threats or send pieces his way — your pieces defend his just fine.
Develop toward the middle, but respect the long lines. Central
pieces hit both enemies; but every line you open is a line someone can use
back. Quiet, safe developing moves (our book's main line starts with a
humble pawn step that frees the queen's diagonal) beat grabby ones.
Don't ignore the far enemy. Beginners fixate on the enemy next
to them. The one across from him is attacking your partner right now —
half the board's action is happening away from you. Look.
Knights toward the center, bishops on long diagonals. A knight
on the rim of a 14×14 board is barely a piece. A bishop lasered across
the whole cross is a sniper.
Advanced pawns are gold. Promotion is far away, but a pawn past
the middle grows in value with every step — the engines push them hard, and
so should you.
First mate wins — you don't have to be "winning." Material count
matters far less than in chess. A cornered king with both your armies
nearby beats being up fifteen points of material. When the attack is there,
take it.
8. Your first opening: The Keyhole
Our engine-verified openings book names its main line The Keyhole:
Red's first move is the quiet pawn step h2–h3, unlocking
the g1-queen's long diagonal without weakening anything. The symmetric
version, where all four players make the same shape (h3 /
c7 / g12 / l8), is called The Four
Courts — safe, sound, and verified to lose nothing for anyone.
You don't need to memorize more than that to start. When you're ready
for real lines, the arena's Trainer teaches the whole book
interactively — see below.
9. How to actually learn (the arena path)
Trainer → Learn — you play all four seats of a book line
with arrows guiding you. This teaches the flow of the four armies,
which IS the theory.
Puzzles (Rated) — one-move tactics served at your level. They
start easy and climb with you; your puzzle rating tracks your progress.
Play the bots — start at Bot 800 and climb. Every finished game
counts on your Ladder rating, so wins mean something.
Review your games — the arena grades every move like a coach.
Look at your two or three worst moves per game; that's where the next 100
rating points live.
Trainer → Punish — once you know some theory, opponents
deviate onto refuted moves and you must prove why they're wrong. This is
the skill that converts knowledge into wins.
One last encouragement: 4 Player Chess has no grandmasters
yet. Even tournament finalists hover around high-70s accuracy in long
games — the theory of this game is being written right now, partly
by the engine that ships with this guide. Every game you play, you're not
catching up to a century of theory. You're early.
Maswabe Arena — rules per chess.com 4 Player Chess
(Teams). Companion reading: the Maswabe Openings Book.